Hair care is a booming industry. Whether you have experienced hair thinning or hair loss, you have likely come across multiple topical treatments that claim to support healthier, longer, and stronger strands.
One such product is azelaic acid. Azelaic acid comes in many forms and is primarily used for treating skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, and melasma, but it has also been cited as an effective solution for treating hair loss. So, is there any truth in this, or would purchasing azelaic acid for your hair be a waste of money?
The good news is there is some substantial evidence to suggest that azelaic acid can indeed promote hair growth. If you’re interested in learning more, here is all you need to know about the benefits of azelaic acid for hair.
What is Azelaic Acid?
First, let’s understand what azelaic acid actually is. Azelaic acid is an organic compound, specifically a dicarboxylic acid, [1] with a range of anti inflammatory properties that benefit the skin. It comes from the years of Malassezia Furfur and is often made into lotions and gels to target skin conditions.
You can purchase azelaic acid over the counter at lower concentrations, or get it at a higher concentration through a prescription.
Is There a Link Between Azelaic Acid and Hair Growth?
Yes, there is a definite link between azelaic acid and hair growth, and it’s partly due to the enzyme called 5-alpha reductase that is present in azelaic acid. This specific enzyme is a natural DHT blocker (dihydrotestosterone DHT), a male hormone responsible for androgenetic alopecia/male pattern baldness, which shortens the anagen phase (growth phase) of hair growth and causes the hair follicles to become thinner and stop producing hairs over time.
Another way azelaic acid hair regrowth occurs is through catalase activation. [2] When this happens, it can promote hair growth and even help preserve the hair’s natural colour, preventing it from going grey.
The 7 Benefits of Azelaic Acid for Hair Loss
It’s clear that azelaic acid hair regrowth is possible, and here are some of the undeniable benefits of using this topical hair loss treatment.
- It Targets the Most Common Cause of Hair Loss
There are many potential causes of hair loss, from alopecia areata to telogen effluvium to androgenetic alopecia. Azelaic acid targets the most common cause of hair loss: androgenetic alopecia, a common type of hair loss that affects both men and women. It’s also commonly known as either male or female pattern hair loss.
Androgenetic alopecia affects more men than women, with up to 80% of men experiencing this type of hair loss at some point in their lives. [3] Azelaic acid is a good, simple solution to this, as it can help reverse this form of male hair loss by blocking the production of DHT, the hormone responsible for male balding.
- It is an Anti-Inflammatory
Azelaic acid is an anti-inflammatory, able to reduce production of cytokines while also activating proliferator activated receptor gamma. [4] This is helpful for treating the hair follicles, as it reduces the inflammation on the scalp and follicles, leading to healthier hair growth over time.
- It Has Antioxidant Properties
Azelaic acid also has antioxidant properties. This works well for hair growth, as antioxidants can help protect the hair from further damage (and thus breakage), as well as boost blood flow to the scalp, which stimulates new growth.
- The Studies Back it Up
When testing a new hair growth treatment, it helps to know that the science is behind it – that is the case with azelaic acid. There have been several interesting studies into the efficacy of azelaic acid on hair over the years. One such study on mice aimed to discover the potential of azelaic acid with minoxidil, with studies finding that it likely has a role in activating hair growth. [5]
- It Is Affordable
Many hair restoration treatments are expensive, leaving sufferers out of pocket. One of the benefits of azelaic acid is that it’s relatively affordable – far more than multiple clinical treatments, at the very least! You can find a bottle of azelaic acid from a local pharmacy or beauty shop, typically for under £20.
- There Are Few Side Effects
Some hair growth treatments have lots of potential and common side effects. While there are some side effects associated with azelaic acid, the common ones are minor, and the more serious ones are very rare. If you want to learn more about azelaic acid’s side effects, we go into that a little further down.
- It is Minimally Invasive
Using azelaic acid to reduce hair loss is super simple! It’s a topical treatment you can do from the comfort of your home without any assistance. There’s nothing invasive about it, unlike many other hair restoration treatments such as PRP injections.
Azelaic Acid Hair Regrowth: How to Use it
Ready to try this simple treatment for hair loss? Here’s how to do it.
Find the Right Product: There are several azelaic acid products on the market. It’s best to find one that comes in a liquid (rather than cream) format so you can easily distribute it through your locks. Also, start with a lower concentration to avoid skin reactions.
Apply it Topically: It’s easy to use azelaic acid for hair growth – simply apply it topically. Aim to cover your entire scalp when using it, massaging it through with your fingers. You do not need to wash it out.
Use Once a Day: You should use azelaic acid on the scalp daily for best results. Some people even use it twice per day.
Potential Side Effects of Azelaic Acid
One of the benefits of azelaic acid is that there are few serious side effects. However, that does not mean there are zero – while most people will be able to use azelaic acid on their skin and scalp without any issues, it’s worth noting the potential irritations and effects one may encounter.
Common Skin Reactions
These are the side effects that are most common and not so serious. These include itching, redness, dryness, or peeling on the face (or wherever the product is applied).
Allergic Reactions
It is possible to be allergic to azelaic acid. If you are, you may experience symptoms such as a rash, swelling, and hives.
Serious Skin Reactions
Some skin reactions are more serious than a little drying. Symptoms here include extreme redness, blistering of the skin, sore skin, and crusting.
Other Serious Side Effects
Some side effects don’t target the skin at all but are very serious. These include shortness of breath, wheezing, and inflammation of the eye. People with asthma may also experience worsening symptoms.
If you experience some of the more common and mild skin reactions, such as a little dryness or peeling after first using azelaic acid, you likely can still use it, just consider lowering the concentration.
However, if you have any of the symptoms that fall under allergic reactions, serious skin reactions, and other serious side effects, discontinue use immediately. If you experience shortness of breath or asthma-related symptoms, seek medical attention.
What if Azelaic Acid Doesn’t Help with Hair Growth?
Have you found that the claims of azelaic acid hair regrowth simply do not work for your locks? While there are clear benefits, it’s not a miracle solution for everybody.
Keep in mind that most hair growth solutions require several months for results to show through – a hair track app will help you track growth. However, you can assume azelaic acid does not work for you if you see no improvement in six months.
If this happens, consider other hair restoration options.
Other Hair Loss Solutions
Here are some other effective treatments for hair loss.
Hair Loss Medications: Hair loss medications may be a great solution for your hair loss. Minoxidil works well as it boosts blood flow to the scalp, and can even be used alongside azelaic acid. Finasteride and dutasteride are also good for blocking the male hormone DHT, but both of these require a prescription.
Clinical Procedures: There are several clinical procedures that may boost hair growth. One clinical treatment for hair loss is PRP (platelet-rich plasma) injections, which use the patient’s own blood to stimulate healing. Others include microneedling, steroid injections, and light therapy.
Hair Transplant Surgery: Surgery is an option for those who want a permanent and effective solution. The FUE hair transplant is particularly popular as it transplants individual follicles to the recipient area to give completely natural results.
Azelaic Acid Hair Regrowth: In Summary
Azelaic acid has many skin and hair benefits, and it’s clear it has the ability to boost hair growth in some people due to its DHT-blocking, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It has many benefits to using this for your hair, including the fact that it’s simple to use, pretty effective, affordable, and poses little risk.
However, it’s no miracle. If you have experienced significant hair loss, our restoration treatments may be the better option for you. To see what a hair transplant can achieve, check our patients gallery.
Sources:
- https://dermnetnz.org/topics/azelaic-acid
- https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7508322/#:~:text=)%3A460%E2%80%93471.-,Azelaic%20acid%20stimulates%20catalase%20activation%20and%20promotes%20hair%20growth%20through,Gli2%20mRNA%20and%20Shh%20protein
- https://cks.nice.org.uk/topics/male-pattern-hair-loss-male-androgenetic-alopecia/background-information/prevalence/#:~:text=Male%20pattern%20hair%20loss%20is,Peytavi%20et%20al%2C%202010%5D.
- https://www.dovepress.com/azelaic-acid-mechanisms-of-action-and-clinical-applications-peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-CCID#:~:text=to%20the%20nucleus.-,12,and%20TNF%CE%B1%20induced%20by%20UVB.
- https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7508322/